The best way to play F1 25 on PC isn’t just maxing out every graphic option. The game raises visual standards and delivers stronger wheel feedback than before, so finding the right mix of performance and realism can seriously boost your lap times and how immersed you feel.
Whether you're playing on high-end hardware or trying to squeeze the most out of a mid-range setup, this guide breaks down the key areas: graphics, force feedback, camera, HUD, and more.
What Are The F1 25 Best PC Settings?
Forget max settings unless you’re benchmarking for screenshots. F1 25’s visuals scale hard depending on what’s toggled, and ray tracing is the first thing to go if you care about frame stability.
High or Ultra High delivers sharp visuals without tanking performance. You’ll also want to take control of upscaling and latency tools.
- Preset: High or Ultra High
- Ray Tracing: Off (all of it)
- DLSS: Quality (for NVIDIA)
- FSR: Balanced (for AMD)
- DLSS 4 Override: Enabled via NVIDIA app (if supported)
- Frame Generation: On, 2x
- V-Sync: Off
- Dynamic Resolution: Off
- NVIDIA Reflex: On + Boost
- Variable Rate Shading: On
- High-Quality Hair: On
Ray tracing might be tempting, but turning it on drops frames more than anything else. It’s not worth it mid-race. DLSS 4 handles sharpening really well, especially with frame gen activated.
Switch off V-Sync and Dynamic Resolution to avoid inconsistent performance. The sharper your inputs, the cleaner the drive.
What's The Best F1 25 Wheel and Force Feedback Setup?
A decent wheel becomes a game-changer once you stop letting the default settings ruin the feel.
Whether you’re running Fanatec, Simucube, or even a CSL DD, getting the weight and rotation right is what separates “meh” from muscle memory.
- FFB Strength: 65–100
- Brake Linearity: 0 (for load-cell pedals)
- Wheel Rotation: 300°–340°
- Damping: Off Or 1
- Interpolation / Smoothing: Off
- On-Track Effects: 40–60
- Rumble Strip Effects: 30
- Off-Track Effects: 30
- Wheel Damper: 5–10
- Throttle Deadzone: 5–10
- Brake Deadzone: 5–10
Low rotation is smoother and faster on tighter corners. If you're wrestling your wheel on straights, lower the effects or dampening.
For Controller Players
You don’t need a $1,000 rig to race well, but controller players do need to drop the comfort assists and get familiar with manual inputs if they want full control.
It’s not about going full sim instantly but about taking off the training wheels step by step.
- Steering Assist: Off
- Braking Assist: Low
- Traction Control: Medium (or full if needed)
- Gearbox: Automatic
- ERS Assist: Off
- DRS Assist: On
- Pit Assist: Off
- Pit Release Assist: On
Deadzones are important as well, especially when your sticks or triggers start to wear down.
- Steering Linearity: 40
- Steering Saturation: 35
- All Deadzones: 0 (unless drift or trigger input is unstable)
Rebind your look-around buttons into actual useful toggles. MFD navigation should be on your left/right sticks.
You need to reach ERS, diff, and fuel mix settings during corners, not buried inside menus.
What Is The Best Camera and HUD Settings in F1 25?
TV Pod and TV Pod Offset are hands down the best angles to race with. Not just because pros use them but because they actually let you see what matters.
Cockpit mode looks great, but it gives you tunnel vision, especially when it comes to curbs and exits.
- Camera Shake: Off
- Camera Movement: Off
- Look To Apex: Off
- Halo Column: Off
- FOV And Offset: Tweak Per Car
- Steering Animation: On (if you want visual cues)
Make sure to personalize your HUD instead of letting the default layout take over the middle.
- Gear Indicator: On the halo bar
- Track Map: Upper-Right Corner
- Delta Timer: On
- Driver Tags: Optional
- Session Timer: On
- Proximity Arrows: On
- MFD Window: Top left or tied to a thumb button
- Shrink HUD elements: by 10–20%
HUD doesn’t transfer automatically between modes, so check each layout, or you’ll end up with broken positioning when switching from practice to qualify.
Do Audio Settings Really Make a Difference?
Yes, audio makes a difference, not for immersion but for feedback.
The difference between hearing tire wear vs. sliding out is about 0.2s of warning time. You want clarity, not clutter.
- Onboard Mix: Cinematic or Broadcast
- Engineer Ducking: Light
- Audio Quality: Ultra High (drop to high if stuttering)
- Music: Off (especially for streamers)
- Subtitles: Off
Even little things like engine tone or battery deploy audio can help you avoid locking up or overdriving in long stints.
Last Few Things You’ll Regret Skipping
Some of these are the basics. Some are the difference between decent and dialed in. Either way, they matter.
- Install On SSD (load times and stutters improve)
- Update GPU Drivers (DLSS 4 won’t work otherwise)
- Performance Testing: Use CapFrameX or in-game overlays
- Steam Deck: Won’t Launch unless dual-booted with Windows
- Handheld PCs: Medium Settings + FSR = good enough
- Test your settings in the rain, not just dry time trials
There’s no one-size-fits-all setting list, but if you follow this guide and tweak from here, you’ll end up with a setup that feels smoother, responds faster, and helps you stay ahead when races get hectic.
Don’t waste another lap blaming the car and make sure to get your settings sorted.
Stay tuned to racinggames.gg: the best place for F1 coverage.